Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
